Friday, November 2, 2012

In Madison County, Burmese refugees build a new home

It’s early October in Madison County, and the oak leaves have barely begun their transformation from green to yellow to red to brown.
At best, a slight jonquil hue has emerged in every other tall timber surrounding a treeless patch of land off Highway 22 just outside of Comer.
But it’s enough for Eh Kaw Htoo to build a simile.

“In the fall, the leaves are like different people, just like the U.S.,” said Eh Kaw, a refugee from Myanmar (formerly Burma), who will celebrate his fifth year living in the U.S. this February.
He pointed at the distant tree line, remarking on the cultural diversity found in America as he leaned on the trunk of the car that drove him and two journalists down the gravel road that leads to The Neighbor’s Field, a plot of arable land farmed by refugees from Myanmar living in Madison and Oglethorpe counties.
After 20 years living in refugee camps in Thailand along the Myanmar border, and seven years before that dodging the guns of a military dictatorship in his home country, life in America, even rural America, offers all the culture he’ll need from now on.

“I don’t feel like I have to go to Japan to see Japanese people,” he said. “Or to Africa to see Africans.”

Eh Kaw and his family — a wife and three children — as well as his father, mother and his two brothers’ families, are part of a refugee community living in Madison and Oglethorpe counties that numbers at least 100.
At The Neighbor’s Field, the community grows its own food and raises its own goats and chickens, and builds structures from felled and foraged trees.
In rural Georgia, Eh Kaw has replicated the rural existence he would have lived if not for 50 years of oppressive military dictatorship.

On a recent Saturday morning, two generations of refugees harvested slim hot peppers, roselle and young daikon radishes — integral vegetables in the Myanmarese diet. Some drove all the way from Clarkston, the DeKalb County city that’s home to thousands of refugees from all over the world. The pepper plants came up chest-high to the teens walking among them. At The Neighbor’s Field, more food grows than the part-time farmers who tend it ever could eat.

Eh Kaw’s people farm this way for a reason: to feed friends and strangers, anyone in need.
Just over the tree tops is Jubilee Partners, an intentional Christian community whose mission includes welcoming newly arrived refugees, and the place that first housed Eh Kaw and his family when they moved to Comer from the Atlanta apartment that aid agencies had provided. The Neighbor’s Field sits on Jubilee’s land.

Refugees from Myanmar are found in all 50 states, especially Georgia. Outside of metro Atlanta, no county has welcomed more refugees than Madison.
In Oglethorpe County, refugees congregate at Vesta Baptist Church, attending English morning services with locals and praying as a people in the afternoon.
A faithful community in place. A job at a chicken processing plant. Neighbors he can trust. Eh Kaw now knows well the “free and safe society” he’d hoped to find in the U.S.
“I never had a home. I never had a country,” he said when asked how he now explains his identity. “I always had to flee. I feel like I’m not a citizen of any country.”

If anything, he said, “I’m American.”

A FORGOTTEN STORY, A ‘SECRET GENOCIDE’

Eh Kaw is Karen, a now predominantly Christian people in a country of 135 distinct ethnicities. For the past 50 years, the Karen have fought a losing battle against a brutal dictatorship run by the majority Burman ethnic group. Although the Karen were British allies during World War II, once the imperial power left the country, the Burman usurped total control in a coup.
The Karen are rural at heart, Eh Kaw said, and don’t think politically; the Burman are more cunning than the Karen.
Among all the ethnicities, the Karen have waged the longest running counterinsurgency, making their civilians targets of junta aggression.
Unlike other refugees who flee to escape becoming collateral damage, the Karen and other ethnicities are targeted as part of a strategic plan by the junta to, at best, quell rebels and, at worst, wipe the Karen out of existence. If you ask Eh Kaw what he thought of the army’s tactics, having lived through what he lived through, it’s impossible not to take it personally.
“Secret genocide,” Eh Kaw said.
Eh Kaw left Myanmar at age 7, fleeing with his family for camps in Thailand. But political geography did little to stop the Burmese Army from chasing refugees like them across the border.
Troops hunted down refugees, burning whatever temporary bamboo structures they found. Eh Kaw recalls never living in the same house, the same camp, for more than three months at a time. The forests provided their only permanent safety, as long as they fled with speed.
“If you are fast enough, you will be safe,” Eh Kaw said. “If you have weak legs, you won’t survive.”
Still, memories from life in Myanmar never fade.
Male villagers would climb trees to keep watch for approaching troops, Eh Kaw remembers. A mere child at the time, he often would play in those trees, swinging from lower branches.
As troops descended upon the village, the sentry cried out.
The warnings sent men scrambling into the forests. At the time, women and children were safe from the troops’ violence — forced labor, imprisonment, death.
Eh Kaw assumes the soldiers saw him drop down from the tree and run back to his mother’s home. As they entered the village, a soldier pulled him aside and stuck a gun barrel to his forehead.

“Why did you warn the others?” he remembers him asking.

Eh Kaw’s mother pushed the soldier down, grabbed her son and convinced the troops to leave them be.

Sitting on the laminate floor in his sparsely furnished rented house in downtown Comer, Eh Kaw and his brother Eh Kae Doh, who lives in Vesta, clearly have more brutal stories to tell. Eh Kaw hints at burned bodies and gruesome deaths. Eh Kae points to his heart and says that’s where his stories will remain — for now.

“Forgive is easy, but forget is not easy,” Eh Kaw said. 

If the dictatorship falls, maybe they’ll return home to visit.
Do their memories haunt them?

“No,” Eh Kaw said. “It’s over.”

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